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How to sell a graphics card and other PC parts
Upgraded your GPU? How to test, clean and safely post a used graphics card, CPU, RAM or other PC components in the UK — and get a quick cash offer.
Updated 14 October 2026 · 5 min read
PC builders upgrade in stages, and every upgrade leaves a perfectly good part behind. A graphics card from the last generation is still a great upgrade for someone else. The same goes for processors, RAM, SSDs, motherboards and power supplies.
PC parts that sell well
- Graphics cards — NVIDIA GeForce RTX and AMD Radeon RX cards in particular.
- Processors — recent Intel Core and AMD Ryzen CPUs.
- RAM — matched kits of DDR4 and DDR5.
- SSDs — NVMe drives especially.
- Motherboards, power supplies and coolers.
- Complete PCs and gaming rigs within 30kg.
Testing your graphics card
Before you sell, make sure it works properly:
- Run it in a PC with up-to-date drivers.
- Run a stress test or benchmark for at least 15 to 20 minutes and watch temperatures.
- Play a demanding game for a while and look for artefacts (strange patterns or colours), crashes or driver resets.
- Check all fans spin and there's no rattling or grinding.
- Test the display outputs you can.
If the card shows artefacts, crashes or overheats, it's faulty and isn't one we can accept.
Was it used for mining?
Cards used for cryptocurrency mining can be fine, but be honest about history if you know it.
Cleaning
Blow dust out of the heatsink and fans with compressed air, holding the fans still so they don't overspin. Wipe the shroud with a dry cloth. Don't open the card or replace thermal paste unless you know exactly what you're doing — it could void any remaining warranty.
Wiping storage
SSDs and hard drives may contain personal data. Wipe them before selling — use your manufacturer's secure erase tool, or format and then overwrite the drive.
Selling
Specialist forums and marketplaces work well for PC parts, but you'll face technical questions and buyers worried about mining history and faults. With SendForCash, describe the part — exact model, condition, whether you have the box — and get an instant cash offer. Accept and we email a free postage label. We pay the same day we inspect.
Packing a graphics card
- Use an anti-static bag if you have one.
- The original box with its foam insert is ideal; put it inside a larger outer box.
- Without the original box, wrap the card in bubble wrap and box it with plenty of padding. Make sure nothing presses on the fans or PCIe connector.
- CPUs: put them in their original clamshell or a CPU case. Never post a CPU loose — the pins are fragile.
Identifying your exact model
Graphics cards come in many variants of the same chip. The exact model makes a difference:
- Chip: for example, GeForce RTX 4070 or Radeon RX 7800 XT.
- Variant: Ti, Super, XT, XTX and memory size variants differ in performance.
- Board partner and model: ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, Sapphire, Zotac, PNY, Founders Edition and so on, plus the specific cooler model.
You can find this on the sticker on the back or side of the card, the original box, or using a tool like GPU-Z, which also shows the card's details and clock speeds while it's installed.
Testing in more depth
To be confident your card is fully working:
- Update drivers from NVIDIA or AMD.
- Check temperatures at idle. They should be reasonable, with fans either stopped (on cards with zero-RPM modes) or spinning quietly.
- Run a sustained load. Use a demanding benchmark or game for at least 20 minutes. Monitor temperatures, clock speeds and fan speeds with a monitoring tool.
- Watch for problems: artefacts, flickering, black screens, driver crashes, or the system rebooting.
- Listen to the fans. Grinding or rattling suggests worn fan bearings.
- Check each display output if you have the cables and monitors.
If the card needs to be underclocked to remain stable, it's not fully working.
Coil whine
Some cards make a high-pitched buzzing noise under load, known as coil whine. It doesn't usually affect performance, but it's worth mentioning if it's noticeable.
Other components
CPUs
- Note the exact model and whether it's boxed.
- Clean old thermal paste off with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
- Check for bent pins on AMD AM4 CPUs (pins on the CPU) or on the motherboard socket for Intel and AMD AM5 boards (pins on the board).
- Pack in a CPU clamshell or the original box.
RAM
- Sell matched kits together. Note capacity, speed and generation (DDR4 or DDR5).
- Test with a memory testing tool before selling.
Motherboards
- Fit the CPU socket cover if you have it — it protects delicate pins.
- Include the I/O shield (if separate), Wi-Fi antennas and any M.2 screws.
Power supplies
- Include all modular cables. Note the wattage and efficiency rating.
- Never open a power supply.
SSDs
- Wipe them first using the manufacturer's secure erase tool.
- Note capacity and interface.
Complete PCs
A working gaming PC can be easier to sell as a whole than parted out. Wipe the drive and reinstall Windows, or reset it with the "remove everything" option, so it's ready for the next owner. Remove any Microsoft account links. Note all the main specs. Check it's within 30kg — most mid-tower PCs are — and pack it carefully, ideally with the graphics card removed and packed separately or well supported.
Upgrading consoles too?
If you're a PC gamer with consoles gathering dust, see selling an Xbox, selling a PS4 or selling retro games.
FAQ
Do you buy old graphics cards?
If it works and meets our £15 minimum offer, yes. Very old cards may fall below that.
Can I sell a whole gaming PC?
Yes, if it works and is within 30kg and 1.5m. Wipe the drive first.
Do I need the original box?
No, but it's the safest way to post a graphics card.
What about laptops with dedicated graphics?
See our guide to selling a laptop.