How to sell board games and jigsaw puzzles

Modern board games have become a big hobby, and boxes add up quickly. Big expansions, Kickstarter editions and games played once at Christmas take up a lot of shelf space. The good news is that there's a healthy second-hand market — as long as the game is complete.

Which games are worth selling

• Modern hobby games — titles like Wingspan, Ticket to Ride, Catan, Pandemic, Gloomhaven, Terraforming Mars and Azul.
• Kickstarter and deluxe editions — these often include extra miniatures and components not available in retail versions.
• Expansions — especially for popular games.
• Miniature games — Warhammer armies and boxed games, painted or unpainted (see our model kits guide).
• Out-of-print games — some become sought after.
• Quality jigsaw puzzles — brands like Ravensburger, Wentworth and Liberty wooden puzzles, complete.

Mass-market family games such as classic Monopoly or Cluedo are usually low value unless they're special editions.

Check it's complete

Completeness makes or breaks a board game's value. Use the component list in the rulebook — most publishers list every piece.

1. Count cards (deck counts are often listed), tokens, dice and miniatures.
2. Check for punched versus unpunched cardboard. Unpunched sheets suggest a game was never played.
3. Note anything missing or replaced.

For jigsaw puzzles, honesty is key — if you're not sure all the pieces are there, say so.

Condition

Box corners, scuffed lids, bent cards, stained components and sticky residue all affect value. Sleeved cards and good inserts add appeal. Shrink-wrapped, sealed games are the most valuable.

Selling options

Board game groups and marketplaces are active, but listing each game individually, answering questions and posting heavy boxes takes time. With SendForCash, describe the games — titles, editions, expansions, completeness and condition — and get an instant cash offer. Accept and we email a free postage label. We pay the same day we inspect.

Packing board games

• Put rubber bands or bags around card decks so they don't spill.
• Bag small components.
• Put the game box in a plastic bag (to protect against damp), then into a larger box with padding.
• Fill gaps so the box can't slide around — box corners crush easily.

A quick guide to checking components

Counting every piece of a big game can be daunting. Here's an efficient way to approach it.

1. Lay out a towel on a table so small pieces don't roll away.
2. Open the rulebook to the component list. Most modern games have one on the first few pages; if not, the publisher's website or the game's community page usually does.
3. Work by component type. Cards first (count each deck in tens), then cardboard tokens, then wooden pieces, then miniatures and dice.
4. Sort into small bags as you go. Labelled zip bags make the next owner's first game easier and make your game look well cared for.
5. Make a note of anything missing or swapped for a replacement. A missing common token is minor; a missing unique card or miniature matters more.

For games with hundreds of cards, check the card numbers printed on many modern cards rather than counting everything. A gap in the sequence tells you what's missing.

Kickstarter, deluxe and collector's editions

Crowdfunded games often come with stretch-goal content, upgraded components and exclusive expansions that never reached shops. If you backed a campaign:

• List exactly which pledge level and add-ons you have.
• Note whether miniatures are unpainted, primed or painted.
• Keep exclusive content with the core box rather than separating it.
• Mention any upgraded inserts or organisers.

These editions can be bulky. Check the total weight is within 30kg and the box within 1.5m. Very large collections can be split into separate parcels.

Sleeved cards and organisers

Card sleeves protect cards and many buyers like them. Leave sleeves on if they're in good condition. Third-party foam or wooden inserts and organisers are also welcome; mention them when you describe the game.

Condition: what "good" looks like

• Like new: punched or unpunched, played a handful of times at most, box corners crisp, no wear on cards.
• Good: played regularly but cared for, minor box wear, cards with light edge wear, nothing damaged.
• Fair: obvious box wear, split corners, scuffed cards or components, but complete and playable.

Be honest. A game that arrives in better condition than described is a pleasant surprise; one that arrives worse leads to a revised offer.

Jigsaw puzzles: a special case

Puzzles are hard to verify without completing them. If you've done it recently and counted, say so. Wooden puzzles and brands such as Wentworth tend to be more sellable than generic cardboard puzzles. Puzzles with an unknown piece count are often better donated.

Smells and storage damage

Games stored in lofts and garages can pick up damp or musty smells, and smoke smells cling to cardboard. If a game smells, air it out in a dry room for a few days with the lid off. Water damage — warped boards, stained cards — significantly reduces value and should be mentioned.

Combining with other hobby sales

Many board gamers also have miniatures, LEGO and trading cards. If you're clearing a games room, see our guides to selling Warhammer, selling LEGO and selling trading cards. If your collection includes video games, our retro games guide covers those.

FAQ

Do you buy single board games?

Yes, if the offer meets our £15 minimum. Several games together usually will.

Is it worth selling a game with a missing piece?

Possibly, if it's a minor common component. Describe it honestly.

Do you buy Warhammer?

Yes — boxed and built miniatures are welcome. Describe whether they're painted, built or still on the sprue.

What about card games like Magic: The Gathering?

See our trading cards guide.